Thanks to some kindness, I’ve had the chance to review two gins, one vodka, and a cowgirl from Spirits of the Wasatch in beautiful Salt Lake City, Utah. Well, at least it was beautiful the last time I was there, hope it still is. I’ve wanted to try their products for a while, and when an opportunity came up, I went for it.

First up, some procedural notes since it’s been a while since I’ve done a formal review like this (stupid lightning). All initial tastings were done using a glencairn glass; martinis were done using my deplorable saucer; and, any other mixed drinks were done using a rocks glass. Now, I don’t think my glass is deplorable, but there are some purists (snobs) who get the vapors when they see things like this used. All initial tastings were done at room (cellar) temp since I tend to keep silver liquids in the freezer so I don’t have to dilute them with ice/water. I then did a second tasting and made mixed drinks using the bottles from the freezer. The products were not provided free by the distillery and I don’t make anything from the links.
I’m going to start with the High Mountain Desert Gin. This is a very good gin, particularly given the price point. In terms of commercial gins most have heard of, I would put this easily on par with Aviation or other similar gins. My own comparison for London Dry style is to Lind & Lime (look up the story of Dr. Lind). While it is not to that level, it gave it the best run of any American gin I’ve had so far. The nose is juniper forward followed by herbed citrus and a hint of white pepper. The gin has a clean mouthfeel with an edge of sweetness on the edges of the pallet. There is sweet citrus and vanilla strong in the center with herbs (sage for one) on sides. The finish is nice and bright with citrus, and it is a rich and flavorful gin. Outside of the mountain sage, I’d love to know what local botanicals went into it as it is excellent and delightfully complex without muddled flavors. On the second tasting, as it warmed I got some more orange and sweet lemon out of it. Crisp, clean, delicious and recommended.
While I am of the ‘wave the cork from the vermouth bottle in the same room as the bottle of gin’ school of dry martini making, I did make a more proper martini with the gin. I used La Quintinye Royal Blanc Vermouth and both held up well in the partnership. While the nose didn’t really change all that much, I did notice less vanilla and more citrus in the taste. A solid classic martini and it should work very well with the classic gin mixed drinks. FYI, it is well worth getting decent vermouth, and I will just note that since I have been known to use an eye-dropper, a bottle of vermouth blanc tends to last a while.
Next up is the barrel rested High Mountain Desert Gin (scroll down the page at the link). The regular gin is aged in rye whiskey barrels for eight months, which imparts color and flavors to the gin. This is one of the best gins I’ve had in quite some time. This is an excellent sipping gin. That is also makes one heck of a martini and should hold its own against all comers in a Boston, Abby, or other cocktail.
And, yes, I said sipping gin. Every now and then you hit a gin that is so well made, so well balanced that you can sip and savor it as you would a whiskey or brandy. My current favorite sipping gin is Isle of Harris Gin, which shares with High Mountain Gin the use of local botanicals. While they are very different styles of gin, both use the local to make something wonderful and different.
In this case, the barrel resting elevates a very good gin into something more. The nose is carmel and vanilla forward, underlaid with a strong herbal component. The mouthfeel is balanced and smooth, and the first flavors to hit are vanilla and carmel — with the vanilla of the original gin augmented by the vanilla from the rye, and it truly does pick up a good bit of carmel from the wood. This is followed quickly by a rush of sage and herb, and sweet citrus. The white pepper of the original gin is pulled forward and combines nicely with the pepper of the rye from the wood. The finish, as before, is crisp and clean. It not only be sipped, but makes a very good classic martini. In fact, the flavors should kick any gin cocktail up a level or two, and if you know a high-end bar they need to try it and add it to their premium line.
Next up is Hidden Vodka. According to the website, some of the proceeds go to help fight human trafficking and I like that. I also like the product. Vodka is really intended to be a neutral spirit that can be blended into a wide variety of styles of drink. Yes, you can do shots and the one time that was fun for me was with some cosmonauts in Berlin. Hidden Vodka is one I would serve (ice cold) shots of to cosmonauts, and cheerfully use in good vodka drinks.
The nose was very clean, no burn (if you ever sniff a vodka and your nose burns, run). Nice mouthfeel, and the product was crisp and clean without much real flavor. It also had no burn, just a nice bit of a tingle on the edges of the tongue. It made an excellent vodka martini, which I converted into an expresso/coffee martini by adding a bit of the Cowgirl to it.
Personally, this goes into my premium vodka category. It’s a good bar staple, it works well with others, and it’s a good price point for the product. In fact, it’s clean enough that I just may use it to make my vanilla extract instead of the potato vodka I usually use.
To close, I’m going to talk about the Cowgirl. Perky Cowgirl Coffee Liqueur is a solid entry into the coffee liqueur category. I like the fact that it is not so thick with sugar (or worse) that it’s cloying and doesn’t like to pour. It may be a little thinner than some would like, but the flavor is solid. In fact, I want to have a cup of coffee from the beans that go into it, and will note that drinking it is like drinking a cup of sweet coffee. It reminds me a little bit of Vietnamese coffee minus the milk. And that is a compliment, trust me. While Kahlua might not need to be looking over its shoulder yet, this is a solid entry into the field and people do like it a lot. Good price point as well.
In closing, I will simply note that one day I want to try their whiskey(ies). I’m glad for their sake they are sold out right now, but given how good these products are, I really do want to try the rest. If I ever get out that way again, I will go visit.
Getting hit by lightning is not fun! If you would like to help me in my recovery efforts, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. If you want to know some of what it is going for, read here. There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.